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Property preparation checklist

How to Prepare for Tree Service

A room-by-room and yard-by-yard checklist for preparing access, vehicles, pets, neighbors and outdoor items before tree work.

Direct answer

Preparing a property for a tree crew splits into two halves, and only one of them saves real money. Moving vehicles off the driveway and away from the drop zone, clearing furniture, planters, hoses and low fencing, and unlocking gates that open fully all save the crew time and save your belongings. Marking what is buried saves a repair bill, and that is the half most often skipped: the septic tank and leach field, the well and its supply line, invisible fence wire, irrigation heads, low-voltage lighting, and any feed to a shed or gate. Dig Safe notification covers utility-owned services before grinding, but anything a previous owner installed is invisible to everyone except you. Keep pets and children indoors for the whole visit, because the hazard zone is much larger than the ground directly under the tree, and photograph the lawn and driveway beforehand.

Only make changes the performing company has requested. Do not enter a drop zone, move electrical lines or try to cut material to make the site easier to reach.

Confirm before the work date

  • Tree and agreed scope match the written estimate
  • Access route, gate width and equipment location are confirmed
  • Wood, chips, brush and stump disposition are confirmed
  • Parking, street or municipal requirements are resolved
  • Boundary or shared-tree permission is documented if relevant

Clear safe access

  • Move vehicles, trailers and movable outdoor furniture when requested
  • Unlock agreed gates and identify septic, irrigation or invisible-fence areas
  • Mark fragile landscaping or structures that may be hard to see
  • Keep children and pets indoors and away from the work zone
  • Tell the company about soft ground, slopes and recent excavation

Protect the household

  • Close windows near chipping or dusty work
  • Plan around noise, driveway access and temporary work zones
  • Notify affected neighbors about access or noise when appropriate
  • Keep everyone away until the crew releases the work area
  • Do not approach workers or equipment during active cutting

Nothing here replaces the crew's own judgement on the day. If they ask you to move something else, there is a reason for it.

What each preparation item is worth

Some of this list saves the crew time. Some of it saves you a repair bill. This is which is which.

ItemWhat it costs youWhat skipping it costs
Vehicles moved off the driveTwo minutesSetup delay, or a dented panel
Furniture and planters clearedTen minutesBroken pots and a slower crew
Gates unlocked and checkedTwo minutesA wasted visit if the machine will not fit
Septic and leach field markedOne look at your recordsA crushed system — the largest bill on this page
Well and well line markedOne lookA severed supply and an emergency dig
Irrigation and invisible fence markedTen minutes with flagsA cut line found next spring
Neighbour told, access agreedOne conversationA crew that cannot legally reach the tree
Before-photos takenFive minutesAn argument with nothing to settle it

Dig Safe marks utility-owned services before grinding. Everything a previous owner installed is yours to flag.

Before the crew arrives

What to move, what to mark, and what it saves you.

How much of this actually matters?+

The moving-things half saves the crew time and saves your furniture. The marking half saves real money: buried infrastructure is the most commonly forgotten item on a property and the most expensive one to hit. If you only do part of the list, do the marking.

What has to be marked?+

Septic tank lids and the leach field, the well and its line, invisible fence wire, irrigation heads and lines, low-voltage lighting, and any buried feed to a shed, barn or gate. Dig Safe notification covers the public utilities before grinding; everything a previous owner installed is invisible to everyone but you.

How much driveway needs clearing?+

More than you would guess. A chip truck plus a chipper is a long combination that needs somewhere to sit and somewhere to turn, and a grinder may need to pass beside it. Ask which vehicles are coming and how much room they need rather than estimating — a crew shuffling vehicles all morning is a crew doing less tree work.

Do gates need anything besides unlocking?+

Check they open fully and stay open. A gate that opens to sixty degrees because a shrub has grown behind it is effectively narrower than its measurement, and the crew discovers that at the worst moment. Check the route beyond it too, for anything that has appeared since you last looked — a raised bed, a compost bin, a rain barrel.

Where should pets and children be?+

Indoors, for the whole visit rather than just while cutting is happening. A working site has a chipper running, ropes under tension, material coming down and vehicles reversing, and the hazard zone is much larger than the area directly under the tree. Crews stop work when someone wanders in, which costs everyone time.

Do I need to be home?+

Being there at the start helps a great deal — ten minutes at the tree with the person who will do the cutting eliminates most of the disputes that otherwise surface afterwards. Being reachable during is useful. Being present throughout is not necessary and you should not be in the work area.

What about the neighbours?+

Tell them it is happening, and settle any access question in advance and in writing if you can. A crew cannot set a chipper, drop a limb or position a bucket on land it has no right to enter, so if the safest plan needs the adjoining lot, that agreement has to exist before the morning of the job.

Should I take photographs first?+

Yes, of the lawn, driveway, beds and any existing damage — a cracked flag, a rutted patch, a dent in a fence. If there is a question afterwards about what was there before, that record settles it quickly and in either direction. Five minutes, and it protects both sides.

How much lawn damage should I expect?+

Some marking is normal and the amount depends far more on ground conditions than on care. Frozen or dry ground carries machines that would rut a wet lawn badly. Ask what will drive on the grass and what protection is used — and if the lawn matters and the job is not urgent, ask about a winter date.

What if it rains on the day?+

Light rain rarely stops tree work; wind does, and so does lightning. Saturated ground can postpone anything involving heavy equipment on a lawn, because working then leaves damage that lasts a season. A crew that reschedules for ground conditions is protecting your property, not being difficult.

Is there anything about the power supply I should point out?+

The service drop from the pole to the house, because it crosses the yard at a height branches reach and it is easy to miss when everyone is looking up at a tree. If any part of the work is near it, that is the utility's equipment and it gets arranged with them in advance rather than worked around.

What should I have decided before they arrive?+

Where the chips go, what happens to the logs, whether the stump is included and to what depth, and what condition you expect the area left in. Those four change the price and the day's plan, and settling them at the estimate rather than mid-job is the difference between a smooth visit and a renegotiation in the driveway.

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